COllection v1: IRONclad
design process
This collection explores the timeless utility of menswear clothing, drawing inspiration from historic garments such as cowboy chaps or foul-weather smocks used throughout the military. By adapting these functional designs, I aim to create modern pieces that celebrate utility throughout menswear.
This collection began with a mood board and then detailed fashion sketches, three of which have been developed into technical flats. I then focused on developing one look into a fully imagined full-scale design as well as developing two designs into half-scale muslin designs.
Moodboard
Fashion SketchesOnce the initial designs were conceptualized, I moved onto the patternmaking stage for the half-scale muslin designs. I began by analyzing the technical flats and sketches to determine the construction methods for each garment. Using these as a guide, I drafted the patterns by hand, ensuring each piece maintained proper proportion and reflected the intended designs.
Attention to detail was crucial during this stage, as I needed to translate the historical elements, such as the protective layering of foul-weather smocks, into clean, modern patterns. I focused on balancing functionality with a modern aesthetic while also considering the practical constraints of half-scale construction.
Technical Flat Sketches Looks 1-3
Look 1 Patterns
Look 1 Half-Scale Muslin Front, Side, and Back Views
Look 3 Patterns
Look 3 Half-Scale Muslin Front, Side, and Back ViewsAfter the half-scale muslin designs were completed, I transitioned to developing Look 2 into a fully realized, full-scale design. I began with patternmaking, ensuring precision to bring the design to life. After finalizing the patterns, I sewed a full-scale muslin to test the structure and fit, as well as to explore the various closures, hems, and seam types that would be utilized in the final garment. This process allowed me to refine both the aesthetics and functionality of the design.
In terms of design choices, I reimagined the traditional look of cowboy chaps by reversing how they are typically worn and seamlessly incorporating the chaps into the pants as a single piece. This creates a cohesive look that celebrates the history of chaps while transforming them into something modern and wearable. On the other hand, the jacket features a curved sleeve, a choice that mirrors the natural shape of the arm, improving both fit and ease of movement. Furthermore, the back vents on the jacket draw inspiration from classic menswear tailoring, aiding in maintaining structure.
For the jacket, I selected a very heavyweight-washed black canvas fabric, a material deeply rooted in workwear clothing. The fabric’s washed finish emulates the passing of time, a nod to the enduring utility of workwear, while its stiff hand and durability provide the structure needed for the jacket's tailored yet functional silhouette. The polyester houndstooth lining was chosen for its smooth, sleek hand and vintage-inspired vibe. From a fiber science perspective, polyester provides durability, ensuring longevity and wear resistance in high-stress areas. To modernize the jacket’s functionality, I incorporated magnetic snaps for closures and a fully lined inner shell, ensuring a polished finish inside and out.
For the pants, I used the same heavyweight-washed black canvas for the side panels, maintaining consistency with the jacket while constructing the main body in black heavyweight denim. Denim is another staple in menswear workwear. Its subtle textural contrast with the canvas adds visual depth to the garment while staying true to the collection's ethos. The pants also include a fully functional zipper fly, enhancing their practicality.
Look 2 Jacket Patterns
Look 2 Pants Patterns
Look 2 Closure, Seam, and Hem Muslin IdeationLook 2 Muslin Front, Side, and Back Views
